Deutsch
Namibia had long been on our wish list, not only because of the anticipated animal encounters. We have always been happy to travel as individuals and had booked the trip as a self-drive in a small group with 10 people. To make it clear right away: it has all worked out perfectly, not only because of the great organization of travel services Ilona Rother (www.reiseservice-rother.de).
We first met our travel companions in Frankfurt in front of the check-in desk of Air Namibia for departure to Windhoek. Again, no complaints, we flew with a new Airbus 300-200 leaving in time and ended up to be the first aircraft on the Husea Kutako Airport the next morning. A short jam there was at the immigration, but eventually we had managed that and on it went for the takeover of rental vehicles (4x4). Very positive to mention is the full briefing by the company Avis into the roads of Namibia (left-hand driving), as well as brief explanations for any necessary tire change due to the not always paved routes.
The day still was long, the morning we used for the check in at the Safari Court Hotel in Windhoek and a short stroll with purchases of water, sunscreen and literature. At 4pm we drove to the 30 km away Goche Ganas Nature Reserve, where we had our first game drive. Here we saw the first animals, wildebeest, springbok, zebra, giraffe, mongoose and many birds, including a hoopoe.
The next day (2) the trip went south to the Kalahari Desert. The Camel Thorn Lodge from Intu Africa (290 km away) was our goal. The B1 road was really quite well, and in the air, we often could see large birds of prey, such as eagles, buzzards and vultures. From Rehoboth onwards the landscape changed, we now have recognized the beautiful red Kalahari sand. In the dune valleys grows grass, bushes and acacia trees, the plants can withstand drought almost 10 months and are habitat for many weaver birds, which we met in the near future every day in large numbers.
In the evening a Sundowner tour was booked again, this time we also saw two pair of ostriches, one with pups and one with a nest of at least 25 eggs. In addition, we made acquaintance with a lioness in a separated part of the large area that must live alone, unfortunately, since the death of her partner.
The Lodge Intu Africa we enjoyed very much, the bungalows were basic but well-appointed, the food was good. On this trip we had very much opportunity to try "bush meat" of Kudu, Oryx & Co.. Early in the morning you have the opportunity to admire the rising sun, in the midst of the red dunes a great photo opportunity. There is also a variety of songbirds, as the ubiquitous weaver birds, also lilac-breasted rollers, bee-eaters, groundscraper thrushes and Cardinal Woodpeckers.
On the third day we went again into south-western direction to the Namib Desert. Via the settling of "Maltahöhe" and the Tsaris pass our destination was 250 km away the Hammerstein Lodge. Here some stormy Springboks live (caution!), also a female leopard, African lynx (Caracal) and cheetahs. The latter one can be caressed even as they were raised by humans. Namibia is the country with the largest free-ranging cheetah population, everywhere else these animals were decimated by hunting or farming. Some lodges take on wounded or motherless animals, but then they unfortunately cannot be reintroduced to the wild. Breeding is forbidden by law, juveniles therefore are (always?) orphaned.
On the 4th day we had to get up very early (strange holiday). Already shortly after 5 o clock we had our first cup of coffee and a picnic box to take home, we still had an hour drive ahead of us to the front gate of Sossusvlei, a large clay pan, surrounded by dunes. Especially in the morning and evening sun the color- and shadow scenery is fascinating. The famous dune no. 45 can be mounted, you should not miss it.
The Sossusvlei is 65 km away from the entrance at Sesriem, for car drivers the ride ends in a parking lot under trees since the last 5 km may be used only with a four-wheel drive vehicle, taxi-shuttle drivers offer their services here.
The most memorable moments you experience after a 20-minute walk to Dead Vlei. We simply let tell the photos here......
In the early afternoon we drove west toward Solitaire Guest Farm, fairly exhausted from the heat and the impressions. It is beautifully situated at the foot of the mountains edge. The rooms in the farm house are very tastefully decorated, as well as all the other rooms. The food also can be highly recommended. Afternoon a Cheetah Tracking was available. The cheetah live in two groups on very large sites similar to the wild, but they wear large collars for the transmitters, which tarnishes the joy of photographing somehow. There are two pools and a beautifully shaped garden with lots of butterflies and songbirds, also nectar birds we saw there. In addition cattle is held and many guinea fowl run around on the premises.
On the 5th day we drove past heading west to Swakopmund via the Gaub Pass and the Kuiseb Canyon. In Walvis Bay we shortly stopped, after we had observed a group of pelicans in the air heading for a lagoon near the road. After a short walk over a few dunes we could see wading birds, lapwings and flamingos in large numbers here.
The next day Roland and I drove again to Walvis Bay, to do there for a boat ride with dolphins on a catamaran. Dolphins were few, but curious seals jump on board to be fed with fish. Along a large seal colony the ride went up to the lighthouse and back to large ships in the harbor. Pelicans accompanied us throughout the journey in the hope from time to time to grab a fish. We were spoiled with sherry, champagne, snacks and fresh oysters.
After another night at the Sands Hotel Swakopmund the longest route of our trip was waiting for us, about 520 km north to Etosha National Park (day 7).On our route we passed the Brandberg and went via Khorixas and Outjo to Etosha. Even the desert elephants we could see from the road. The Taleni Etosha Lodge is located about 2 km from the southern Andersson Gate and offers interestingly furnished safari bungalows with tent walls
Day 8-10 Etosha. Finally it was time, shortly after sunrise, we took the car to the Etosha National Park, initially completed the necessary "Entry formalities" and then it really started. In the most beautiful morning light the first Springbok, Zebra families, giraffes and jackals came close to the road, a leopard tortoise crossed our way and then peacefully we have seen a Tawny eagle on a tree beside us.
The name "Etosha" means something like large, wide square. Today's Etosha Pan was once the bottom of an inland lake, which is now dry and covers an area of about 5,000 square kilometers today. There are different vegetation zones: salt desert, shrub savannah, grasslands, bush-savannah, Mopane savannah, sinks, mud-pans, dry forest, dolomite hill at Halali and dry forest zones. Wildlife observation generally is performed on the roads (mostly gravel) from the car only. Speed limit is 60 km/h, both as a protection for the animals, also to reduce the amount of dust during driving, which does not really work. The park has four state owned lodges, the camps Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni and Onkoshi, they must be reached before sunset and can only be left until after sunrise again.
For us, in addition to the "planned" encounters at the water points it was very intriguing to have the chance of meeting them in the middle of the roads, a strange feeling it was at least, to face an elephant directly on the road. The bright, almost blinding salt pan was always good for a special shot of the landscape.
Lions were invariably almost found at the water holes. The best time for bird photography was almost always in the early morning, later the light was too bright. At dusk once we met a Honey Badger in the evening, at this time also the rhinos were found. Elephants did something rare at the beginning, at Halali and the eastern part to Namutoni but we had many encounters at the water points, as well as adjacent to and on the road.
The camps Okaukuejo, Halali and Namutoni we would call simple, but clean. You have to take into consideration the relative short time you stay in them, so they definitely are good enough. They have been renovated completely and have the advantage to offer everything, so the park needs not to be exited during the night. We liked best the more expensive Bush Chalets which we had in Namutoni.
Day 12-13: The last stop on our tour should be Okambara Elephant Lodge, about 80 km from Windhoek airport to the east. On the premises there are several cheetah, leopard foundling Lulu, caracals, and now the two new cheetah orphans Mowgli and Minti. The latter can (yet) still be stroked, at the time of our visit they were about 5 months old. We also were able to again interact in detail with the big cats in the context of the "Cat Tour".
And that's what it was, Air Namibia brought us back to Frankfurt very punctually. But we don't want to finish without saying thank you again to Ilona Rother here for the successful planning and organization of our tour!