Once again we went diving in Mexico. For us, it was one of the best underwater paradises we have ever seen and experienced.
The awkward journey via Amsterdam and Mexico City and the overnight stay booked in Cabo San Lucas (a terrible place) to be on
the safe side were quickly forgotten. Luckily, all our luggage was with us this time and so in the afternoon we met up with our
fellow travelers at the well-known diving centre "See Creatures" to board the Nautilus Gallant Lady. On board with us were a
total of 12 divers and snorkelers from Germany and Switzerland.
In the evening, we headed north to Magdalena Bay to go in search of baitballs (sardines, anchovies or mackerel) and striped
marlin with local captains on pangas, i.e. smaller boats. The chances of doing this are quite good from November to January
and we were able to spot baitballs several times. "Interactive snorkeling" was then the order of the day, but we were not
always on site in time, as dolphins or sea lions and the marlins had already ensured that the schooling fish were significantly
reduced. Sometimes the fish were also too fast, so that it was not possible to approach them. A truly unique experience, and
the dives and snorkeling with the playful sea lions were great fun.
The weather was fine and the wind and swell were reasonably bearable, which would otherwise have made the trip difficult with
the smaller boats. We kept coming across large pods of dolphins and, as a highlight on the last two days, several groups of
humpback whales and their offspring, which were heading south towards warmer waters.
Unfortunately, the first week was over far too quickly and we headed back to Cabo San Lucas, where we had spontaneously organized
a half day of birdwatching. We were accompanied by Maria, who was also able to tell us a lot about Mexican history and culture.
In Todos Santos, we were able to observe hummingbirds, woodpeckers, buzzards, caracaras, nightingales, warblers, tyrannos and
other endemic bird species. Together with Maria's interesting stories, the time flew by and in the early evening we were taken
to board the Nautilus Explorer.
Our destination was once again the Revillagigedo archipelago, consisting of the volcanic islands of Socorro, San Benedicto,
Roca Partida and Clarion. The three first mentioned were again on our plan, and the weather gods were with us again this week.
We experienced a calm crossing to the southwest in about 22 hours, the islands are about 450 km from the coast of Baja California.
The crossing time was again filled with countless briefings on safety, diving and lectures on sharks and manta rays.
The water was significantly warmer (approx. 25 degrees) than in Bahia Magdalena, we started off San Benedicto with a
check dive at Sandy Beach and then switched to El Canon, where unfortunately the visibility got worse and worse as the day
went on (we don't know any different). The dive site is known for its shark cleaning station (whitetips, silvertips, Galapagos
sharks and silky sharks). We were also able to admire the first manta rays, whose wingspan can be up to 7 meters (from wingtip
to wingtip), they are extremely trusting and seek eye contact with the divers.
At night, we then drove to the island of Roca Partida, another uninhabited island that was colored white by the many
seabirds. Early in the morning, we made the first of four dives (unfortunately, we were not the first on site) and saw the
many white tips again, lying all over the balcony-like ledges together with lobsters. Around the rock, jackfish, wahoo and
tuna pass by - and here again: the manta rays, trusting, curious, always on the lookout for the bubbles emitted by the strange
divers. A particularly affectionate black specimen accompanied us on our second dive for almost half an hour as we made our way
around the rocks.
Unfortunately, there were no whale sharks on site, and the other diving group spent a long time searching the blue for the
"false orcas", which could be heard again and again, but could only be seen at a distance.
In the evening, we headed north again to the island of Socorro, where we did another three dives at Cabo Pearce the
following day. We were accompanied by manta rays, hammerhead sharks and the first dolphins (bottlenose dolphins). In the
afternoon, the obligatory visit from employees of the naval base took place on the Explorer. In the evening we returned to San Benedicto.
The conditions were good, the surf and swell were bearable and the zodiacs were able to take us to the dive site El Boiler,
where we were able to do all 4 dives on offer. The playful dolphins were already waiting for us during the early morning dive,
and sometimes the manta rays were literally jostling for attention (at least according to the divers). From time to time, the
occasional hammerhead shark appeared as a silhouette in the background, a truly gigantic spectacle that can only be experienced
at a few dive sites worldwide.
On the last day of diving, we moved over to El Canon. The guides from the sister ship Belle Amie had radioed that the
visibility had been very good the day before and we were still very hopeful of spotting the school of hammerhead sharks.
However, it was again very milky for us, the hammerhead sharks were there, but at a cautious distance and difficult to spot.
Instead, the dolphins played "dead man" with us again, i.e. "I'm going to lie on my back and see what happens". It was really
itchy to not cuddle them... Again, the manta rays did their best, you can read a lot into it, but you really get the feeling
that they enjoy the interactions with the divers, at least they love all the bubbles.
Then it was already over, unfortunately, and the very long journey home awaited us with a few stopovers in Cabo San Lucas,
Mexico City and Amsterdam (this time the long-haul flight was actually operated by KLM).
Another update on the two boats: The Nautilus Gallant Lady did not seem as seaworthy as the Nautilus Explorer, but as we had
relatively favorable weather conditions, including low swell, a comparison was not important. Both crews were very helpful,
the panga drivers again did a great job and the two chefs deserved great praise. In our opinion, the Explorer is clearly
getting on in years, and the guest cabins are also in urgent need of renovation. All in all, another great trip, the dive
sites really are the very best and the weather conditions also played along this time.
